It’s a bold move opening an upscale supper club in Toronto while the world is still reeling from the recession. But sometimes when all is doom and gloom, the best antidote is shiny optimism, served up with a side of style – and a killer menu.

The team behind The Roosevelt Room has decided to do just that. Billing itself as "Toronto’s first true supper club experience", (Charles Khabouth may have something to say about that...) The Roosevelt Room aims to combine the best in nightlife, concierge service, and haute cuisine all rolled up in a stylish nouveau Art Deco package that evokes "the classic grandeur of Old Hollywood and the excitement of the Roaring Twenties." The idea is come here for an incredible dinner, and stay to party the night away. Now, I’m the first to admit that I am so over nightclubs that my friends find me fantastically dull. After spending a few of my, er, "formative years" bartending, Toronto’s clubland pretty much gives me a rash just thinking about it. So I’m more than little sceptical of the location, as The Roosevelt Room is situated close to Adelaide and Peter. But for a number of reasons, I really like what this supper club is trying to achieve. So yes, The Roosevelt Room has my attention.

Firstly, I’m a sucker for Art Deco – and The Designer Guys have worked some serious Deco magic on The Roosevelt Room. Just being inside the room dripping with slick gold and polished black surfaces makes me happy. Add to that footage from 20’s silent films on screens around the luxe room, Cabaret performances and I’m feeling a bit transported to a more glamorous time – or at the very least I hope I look more glamorous in that setting. (a girl can hope, right?) All the regular libations are available, but the specialty molecular cocktails designed by BarChef’s Frankie Solarik are out of this world – the Dark & Stormy, with it’s subtle hit of star anise, is particularly delish – and definitely worth a try. (I will note the $30 price tag for you, as it bears mentioning, but trust me, if you’re going to splurge on a drink this is it.)

But for me of course, the food has to be the star of the show, otherwise I’m not going to show up in the first place, let alone party the night away. Apparently, Roosevelt Room owners Jeff O’Brien and Anthony Miceli agree. By recruiting Trevor Wilknison ( of Trevor Kitchen and Bar, ex-of Lobby, Centro, and Jump) as Executive Chef, they are proving that they are as serious about the food as they are about the nightlife experience they are providing. I’ve always been a huge fan of Trevor Kitchen and Bar (particularly the duck confit, natch) so I was eager to see what he’d conjure up for the supper club crowd. For The Roosevelt Room’s menu, Trevor carries over the glam 20’s theme, inspired by the menu for the first ever Academy Awards dinner in 1929, held at none other than the Hollywood’s Roosevelt Hotel. Many of the dishes – coq au vin, venison rib chop, lobster thermidor – are modern takes on old-school French classics. The Roosevelt Royale – a sirloin cheeseburger with braised beef cheeks & Roaring Forties Bleu Cheese – hits the mark with the current upscale burger craze, and an avalanche of flavour. But I’m swayed by something a little more subtle – a local Line Caught Pickerel Meuniere with peppercorn mayo, the cutest and yummiest little biscuits, and confit potatoes (oh come on – you knew duck fat would be in there somewhere). The pickerel is perfectly light and flaky, wonderfully delicate and flavourful, and the accoutrements are just as addictive. Instead of this being an update on haute cuisine, it seems more like an upscale take on rustic fare, which suits me just fine.

The Roosevelt Room for dinner? I’m convinced. I’ll wallow in the Art Deco glow of the 20’s anytime – especially if Trevor Wilkinson’s food is on the menu. Stay all night and party? Well, let’s just say that the next molecular mixology creation just might be called "Twist My Arm".

The Roosevelt Room is located at 328 Adelaide Street West: therooseveltroom.ca

Michelle Jobin is the host and producer of Toronto Dining and a Weather Specialist for Global News. She is especially fond of duck confit, dark chocolate ganache, and thunderstorms.