Good Food Revelation | Toronto | Ontario | News and Features from the Good Food Revolution

Volume 1, Number 4 | Toronto, Ontario| A Malcolm Jolley website | News & features from the good food revolution

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What would this man barbecue? Locavore maven and Culinarium proprietor Kathleen Mackintosh figures Ontario's founder Sir John Graves Simcoe would opt for Angelo Bean's all-Ontario Salsiccia Ubriaca: pasture-raised Berkshire pork sausages infused with Henry of Pelham's Riesling or Baco Noir wine, using Bean's secret concentrating method. Perfect for Monday's holiday, bearing Simcoe's name. Bean markets his sausages under the moniker 'Ontalia' in homage to the traditional foodways of his native Italy and his insistence on using high quality local ingredients from his adopted home, Ontario. His sausages are available at Culinarium and All The Best Fine Foods.	Two Transformations: Paul DeCampo and Chris Brown Opt for Public Service
	A few months ago if Paul DeCampo came across Chris Brown (pictured at left in light blue shirt), it would have likely been because the senior salesman for Henry of Pelham was bringing samples to chef's high-end Toronto restaurant, Perigee. Now, both have transitioned to jobs serving the common weal. De Campo now runs FoodShare's 'Good Food Box' program, while Brown is cooking for The Stop Community Food Centre's. Malcolm Jolley met with each man separately recently to find out the story behind each move. More>>
	Anne Martin on Wine Good Food Revelation's Wine Editor Anne Martin discovers the perfect match for a strong flavoured summer pasta: the 2005 Tenuta Cocci Grifoni Le Torri Rosso Piceno Superior ($18.95) from Italy's hot culinary region, Le Marche. This Montepulciano and Sangiovese delivers affordable finesse. More>>	Food Day Canada Food activist and Canadian culinary chronicler Anita Stewart has declared August 1st "Food Day Canada". An extension of her annual 'Longest BBQ' project, Stewart wants Canadians to cook something and local and tell each other about it. Visit flavoursofcanada.ca to register and read the stories.
	THIRTY IN TWENTY 1973: A Toronto photographer and his new wife hire a VW camper van and head out on the autoroutes of France with a singular mission: dine at ten Michelin-three-starred restaurants in 20 days. They keep every menu and document the trip thoroughly. 2009: A Toronto art gallery mounts an exhibition of the photos from the trip in a series of shows catered by some of the city's top chefs. Find out more next week at Good Food Revelation...

From Good Food Revelation, Volume 1, Number 3 (GFR0103)

Is Canada in the Weeds?

Phaidon is publishing a book this fall called COCO featuring the world's 100 top young chefs and not one is Canadian. Why? A super-chef selection panel, which included Mario Batali, Gordon Ramsay and Alice Waters, did not deem a single Canadian chef worthy. Toronto Food writer Shaun Smith has learned that there's still one spot open in the book and is trying to reach Phaidon with a campaign to nominate a young Canadian chef. Visit ShaunSmith.ca to join the movement. As of Thursday afternoon, Smith reported support from Susur Lee, Guy Rubino, Marc Thuet, Karen Barnaby and Naomi Duguid as well as noted food writer James Chatto and OHI Chair and local chef advocate Charles Grieco
.

GoodFoodRevBlog

Photo: Tawfik Shehata

Are these guys nuts?
Carlo Catallo and Victor Barry bring fine dining back to Splendido - in the middle of the great recession. A cheerful sounding Carlo Catallo is on the phone. The man seems pretty calm for someone who, by conventional wisdom, is about to take a flying leap with his business partner Chef Victor Barry. The pair will reopen Splendido, the storied restaurant on Harbord Street, first owned by legend Franco Prevedello and Chef Arpi Magyar, then transformed by Yannick Bigourdan and Chef David Lee into arguably Toronto's finest restaurant. Catallo and Barry bought it from Bigourdan and Lee just as the economy tanked and diners rediscovered bistro more>>

Not Hard to Swallow

Writer, cook and now broadcaster: Ivy Knight is on the radio with her summer show Swallow. In this exclusive piece, she gives Good Food Revelation readers the inside scoop on how Toronto's multi-food-media-darling got on the air and what she's up to on it. more>>

Crisp Pink Sparkling for Under $20:
Cordoníu Pinot Noir Brut
Every year there's a big trade tasting of Spanish wines. Agents (importers) show off ten year old Riojas and Priorats that command the respect of sommeliers and critics. But one table is never without a line-up: the one that pours Cordoníu Cava. The house has been making sparkling wine in the traditional method of that region of France that starts with "Ch" for over 100 years. Cordoníu's Pinot Noir Rosé (LCBO# 665372) is $16.95, and is clean, crisp with cherry and floral notes and a slight lemon-lime lift in the finish. In other words, it's quite refreshing: if it weren't for its intense fine bubbled fizz it would be dangerously quaffable. It also looks lovely and holds a moderate 12% alcohol by volume, which encourages a second glass. Perfect for an aperitif or an accompaniment to a cold soup, like gazpacho. Click here to find a bottle at an LCBO outlet near you.

In Season Now: Ontario Apricots
Locavore purveyor Kathleen Mackintosh
thought she didn't like apricots until she had one from Niagara. Kathleen reports the first Ontario apricots are in at her store, Culinarium, and are as sweet as can be. The difference makes sense. As the OFM points out, apricots turn their beautiful golden orange colour before they are fully ripe. Exporting producers, concerned more with a robust fruit that can withstand a journey of weeks and thousands of miles, will often pick early so their fruit is woody and tasteless. (Photo: Kirk Wendland)

Next week at GoodFoodRev.com: Two Transformations...
Wine seller Paul DeCampo manages the Good food Box at FoodShare and fine dining chef Chris Brown moves kitchens to The Stop Community Food Centre. Each tells GFR how their new jobs have changed and inspired them.

From Good Food Revelation, Volume 1, Number 2 (GFR0102)...

Yonge Street Reborn?

Move over panzerotto and sub shops, Yonge and Dundas' culinary status has received two important culinary boosts in the last few weeks: 1) Bob Berman, who was chef and co-owner with Barbara Gordon of the celebrated Boba on Avenue Road, has quietly taken over The Senator, and 2) Jamieson Kerr, the man behind King Street West's ultimate wine bar Crush, has opened The Queen and Beaver, arguably Toronto first true gastro pub on Elm Street. More to come...

Chefs Celebrate 20 Years of Langdon Hall
Grand Chef Jonathan Gushue welcomes Jamie Kennedy, Michael Bonacini and Anthony Walsh into his kitchen, plus farmer Antony John, affineur Afrim Pristine and winemaker Norman Hardie: July 24-6: LangdonHall.ca.

"THE MOST PROFOUND THING I'VE LEARNED IS HOW BLESSED WE ARE TO LIVE IN CANADA" - Chef Michael Smith

Chef Michael Smith
Just named Prince Edward Island's official tourism ambassador, Michael Smith talks to Malcolm Jolley about his upcoming 'Iron Chef' TV-taping, cooking at the Whistler Olympics, travelling the world for ss'Chef Abroad' and why he thinks PEI is the best culinary tourism destination on earth... more>>.

In Season Now

Sweet peas: Our cool, wet spring might not have been great for weekends, but Ontario's pea crop couldn't be better or more abundant reports Culinarium's Kathleen Mackintosh
, GFR's Locavore Guru. MacIntosh sells Drayton farmer Alvin Gingrich's Windfield Produce's ready-shelled version, since: "They are perfect for cooking with, since I don’t know about you, but when I shell peas to cook with I just end up eating most of them before they see the pot."

PEI Chef Michael Smith

www.allthebestfinefoods.com

A Proper Pink Wine Under $20

The 2008 Chateau de la Tour de L'Eveque ($18.95 - LCBO# 319392) is the French Riveria in a glass a proper fruity pink that's as refreshing as a Mediterranean breeze with a light strawberry taste. Winemaker Regine Sumeire is one of Provence's most respected vintners and her properties, just west of St. Tropez make serious reds and whites, too. Not that the salmon pink Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah blend isn't seriously made, it's just also happens to be a lot fun and it upholds two important rules for rose that aren't always being kept these days: a reasonably moderate alcohol by volume (13%) and a price tag under $20. Click here to find stock in a local LCBO.

From Good Food Revelation, Volume 1, Number 1 (GFR0101)...

Andy Shay on Cheese GFR's Cheese Guru, Andy Shay looks for new artisanal cheeses and travels to a strip mall for Kajmak a fresh-made Serbian cheese... more>> Truly New Potatoes IN SEASON IN ONTARIO Spotted at farmers' markets and discriminating boutiques: fresh Ontario (truly) new potatoes, ready for the herbs from the garden. Watch this space next week for our seasonal feature brought to you by Culinarium, Toronto's Locavore Store.	*Laura Calder's New French Taste:* Exclusive GFR Interview After a decade in France, Canada's Laura Calder came home - or sort of. The Maritimes native has settled herself in Toronto and has published French Taste*, her sophomore effort following French Food at Home.* Malcolm Jolley caught up with Calder before she headed back to Paris to teach a cooking course. In GFR's exclusive interview, Calder talks about writing her second book, being called a snob, real French cooking and the importance of sitting down... more>>
		Wine Under $15: Jackson-Triggs Proprietors’ Reserve Mèthode Cuve Close Good Food Revelation's Wine Guru, Anne Martin finds a local bubbly that's as light on the palate as it is on the wallet: Jackson-Triggs Proprietors' Reserve Methode Cuve Close may be the perfect patio sipper... more>>
		Award Winners Celebrated (Finally) James Beard Award and IACP award winners Naomi Duguid and Jennifer McLagan were feted at Pangaea recently at the initiative of The Cook Book Store and Women's Culinary Network. Why, asked notables, don't we make a big deal of our superstar cookery authors? more>>
	Coming Up at Good Food Rev An interview with Chef Michael Smith, Paul DeCampo at FoodShare, good food (and wine and drink) reveals by Greg Bolton, Jamie Drummond, Carlos Fuenmayor, Ivy Knight, Lorette C. Luzajic, Kathleen Mackintosh, Joshna Maharaj, Anne Martin, Mary Luz Meija, Andy Shay, Christine Sismondo, Arlene Stein, Zoltan Szabo and many, many more...
	Gourmet News: see GFR's Blog for links from the world's gourmet media.

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